The Brecon Beacons are stunning. We went to the Black Mountains and opted for a long walk up to the highest point (Waun Fach, 811m above sea level) and walk along a ridge around a valley and back to the road again.
(Landlord)
It started off great. The sun was out but the wind was unbelievable. It took about three hours to reach the first high point. The wind was so strong you could stand on top of the mountain and lean into it (or lean back on it) which was fun (but noisy). It felt like the wind could just scoop you up and throw you off the mountain if it felt like it.
Standing mountain top you had a breathtaking 360 degree view of hills and valleys and not a human habitation (or being) in sight. We were just two small walkers in a landscape of short shrubs and heath plants
(view from Black Mountains)
After the third or fourth hour of walking, I jokingly spoke into my thumb and pinky "hello? Mountain Rescue? yes um, we're on top of the mountain, and um, we're quite tired now, so could you come and pick us up, please? and a cup of tea would be nice"
And then, the weather turned. We had our waterproof trousers with us and after some comedy moments trying to get them on over our boots without falling over (unsuccessfully on my part) we felt a bit more protected from the elements.
As visibility got to 20m or so from the cloud that had dropped, I just kept having the Richard Burke commentary from the programme 999 run through my head "they had set out on a fine, clear day and were experienced walkers, but then the weather suddenly closed in on them" (now I understand what that term means - it really does feel like it's closing you in and makes you feel oddly claustrophobic in this wide open space). "Unable to find the right path they sought shelter from the driving wind and rain" Michael Burke went on to describe the feeling of disorientation and quiet panic as the two walkers realised they had lost the path. Much of the path disappeared and reappeared, the weather having eroded the feint traces of human presence up here. They had passed only two walkers since they'd set off at 11am that morning and it was now late afternoon
(Where the hell are we?)
With no visibility and no path, their situation became desperate and they had become disorientated."
We had no torches and no food except a small block of chocolate. We knew we needed to make progress, but I felt we should be heading more left and he headed of to the right. We argued briefly and then I asked that we get the compass out "just to make me feel better" which we did. I am glad I insisted because it turned out he was heading off east when we needed to be going west and then south. I was still arguing my point that we needed to head off west right NOW when my heart leaped as I spotted two walkers in the mist from the west.
We scrambled over and tried to hide our mild distress and asked if there was a path down that way. They assured us it was there but it disappeared frequently. Oh Thank God! A path! so we went that way.
We still could not see more than a few metres and the rain was like needles on the sides of our faces. The wind was merciless and I was glad for the waterproof trousers. Although the path did disappear at parts, reclaimed by nature, we did have some motorcycle tracks to follow. We found a cairn (not on the map) and I had a bad feeling. Checking the compass confirmed we were heading north and we should turn back to the high point. Gorgeous Landlord insisted that one compass reading is not a guide for overall direction. I wasn't sure. We turned back and then back agaon and were aware that our desperate situation was getting no better and I hid from him that I was actually afraid we might have to spend the night on this mountain.
We took another compass reading and he was right - we were heading west (hurrah!) and hopefully the path would swing south soon.
The weather was unbearable and I was afraid we wouldn't make it before dark but that south turn wasn't coming and another compass reading showed north again. More than an hour had passed and I still felt we were going wrong but thenthe weather lifted and we could make out a valley - we checked against the map and the valley made no sense looking at the contour lines we had. Shit shit shit shit we are not anywhere near where we thought we were - and in the distance, on the side of the hill we saw a path - ohmygod, that might jsut be the path we should be on, it IS heading west.
(sheep in the fog)
So we (perhaps unwisely) left our path, tramped down the steep side (scary!) and picked up the path heading west. We still had no clue what valley that was on the map but at least we were heading in the right direction.
I felt a little less worried we'd be spending a night on the mountain as I felt we would hit a road (eventually). Instead, we hit a fork and had to choose: go south (but uphill) or west (but downhill) and that's when two mountain bikers appeared (bloody nice they were, too) and checking their map against our map - we'd missed our mountain home and were on the next ridge (they are like fingers) and miles and miles and miles wrong.
but an hour later and we were in a pub - where we called a taxi and got home £20 poorer. Later we admitted to each other just how scared we had been up there. We'd kept our spirits up and had maintained a cheerful exterior but both of us had secretly been planning how we might survive a night out there in the absence of any shelter (not even a shrub or tree) if we couldn't find our way home before dark. But thankfully Michael Burke did not need to tell our story on 999.